Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.